Rod Shifter Conversion

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Nick Chrimes, BaySHO Performance

Rod Shifter Conversion

Note: the rod shifter conversion is no longer being manufactured. Order yours while they can still be found. If you can't find one, see the parts listing at the bottom of this page. Ford Motorsport conversion kit (discontinued) Ford SVO offers a conversion kit which updates older cable-linkage cars to the rod shift mechanism used on current models (Part #M-7210-SHO, $339.95 list from Ford Motorsport, street price around $230). The kit includes a rerouted exhaust resonator pipe. If you purchase an aftermarket exhaust, you will need to specify the appropriate pieces for the rod shifter kit (Dynomax and Borla both make rerouted pipes). The kit includes excellent instructions with pictures. Here are some additional notes and alternatives to the kit instructions:

The original instructions are given below, interspersed with the original notes from SHOTimes FAQ in italics. Ford’s permission to reproduce these notes is also shown.

No part of this document may be reproduced without prior agreement and written permission of Ford Motor Company Special Vehicle Operations.

INTRODUCTION:

This kit offered by Ford Special Vehicle Operations (SVO) has been designed to convert 1989 91 *Taurus SHO vehicles from cable shift transmission controls to rod shift transmission controls. The installation of this kit can be done with an average amount of mechanical experience, but it is very important to closely follow the instructions. Read each step of the instructions before beginning the installation and if you do not understand it go back and read it again.

• 1991 Taurus SHO vehicles built after 6/01/91 have Rod Shift Transmission Controls.

SPECIAL TOOLS REQURED FOR INSTALLATION: Electric Drill 1/4" Drill Bit 7/16" Drill Bit 1/2" Drill Bit Reciprocating Saw Propane Torch Eye Protection

Die Grinder/Cutoff Wheel [not needed. Left- and right-handed sheet metal shears are a good replacement. Reciprocating saw works well for the exhaust if you don't have a torch. Die grinder and hacksaw work for exhaust if you don't have a reciprocating saw, though. ]

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M 7210 SHO ROD SHIFT KIT CONTENTS

Item# Quantity Description

I I Bracket Assembly, Trans. Control Selector 2 2 Plug, Body 3 1 Bracket, Lower Mounting 4 1 Control Assembly, Trans. Gear Shift 5 6 Nut & Washer Assembly, M8x 1.25 Lock 6 1 Resonator Assembly 7 1 Boot Assembly, Trans Gear Shift Lever 8 1 Console Panel, Gear Shift Opening [molded in black plastic. If you don't have a black interior, you'll probably want to get it painted. Take the new black plastic panel to the local Ford parts counter guy. He should be able to prep it with a quick-drying spray that allows the plastic surface to be painted. Then use a can of Ford spray paint that they use to match interior trim that is damaged by the mechanics. The paint matches perfectly and is very durable. You will need to tell the parts guy the interior trim color code for him to pick the right color spray can]. 9 4 Nut, 5/32 Spring

(NOTE: The above components are 1992 Taurus SHO production parts. If replacement is required, contact your Ford/ Lincoln/Mercury dealer)

Parts listing for rod shifter kit (with thanks to Joshua Teixeira)

Part Part # Description

Clevis bolt E6DZ-7K104-A Bolts shifter rod to shift actuator stub on tranny Clevis bolt washer E6DZ-7K105-A Goes on other side of shift actuator stub for bolt above Clevis bolt nut N620480-S2 / (AM-18-G) The above appear to be '86 part numbers, so they probably exist in the old setup. Stabilizer F1DZ-7400-A Goes from tranny to center of car, includes 'box' and frame for the box, includes sliding insulator that bolts to car at shifter end Shifter rod F1DZ-7B140-A Goes from shifter to tranny, attaches to tranny with clevis bolt. Stabilizer/shifter support (upper) F1DZ-7A147-A support from top of floor pan for the lower part, through floor pan Stabilizer/shifter support (lower) F1DZ-7A147-B support from bottom of floor pan for stabilizer, bolts to top part Shifter F1DZ-7210-A Actual shifter handle, fits into stabilizer, attaches to shifter rod. Shifter Boot xxxx-7277-x Shifter leather boot (not available anymore) Shifter Knob xxxx-7213-x Not needed for conversion, use old one Nuts for shifter support (6 req'd) N801-1555-S2 / (AM-9-KK) Used on captive bolts in upper and lower shifter support which bolt together through floor pan, and on captive bolts in support which attach to the stabilizer insulator in the support Resonator F1DZ-5A289-C Bent resonator to go around shifter

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INSTRUCTION STEPS:

STEP 1: Disconnect Battery.

STEP 2: Raise the vehicle off the ground and support it with jack stands.

CAUTION: BE SURE TO SUPPORT THE VEHICLE PROPERLY TO AVOID PERSONAL HAZARDS.

STEP 3: Remove the two bolts holding the front of the resonator assembly. Save the bolts, springs and nuts removed for reuse. See Figure 1.

STEP 4: Use a die grinder or cutoff wheel to cut the heat shield at the point shown in Figure 2. [Use the sheet metal shears to cut the heat shield. It's about as thick as construction paper.]

STEP 5: Drill out the front two rivets (See Figure 1) and remove the forward part of the heat shield. Leave the rear part of the heat shield attached to the floor pan. [No need to drill out the rivets. The shield just rips off around them.]

STEP 6: Remove the rear exhaust clamp on the resonator assembly. Save the exhaust clamp for reuse. [Get a new clamp before starting. ]

Figure 2

STEP 7: Heat the resonator assembly in the area where the clamp was attached with a propane torch. Pull the resonator assembly out of the exhaust pipe (See Figure 3).

[Fat chance of getting the pipe out by just heating it up. You'll probably have to cut the old pipe off with the recip saw, and then split the ring that's left inside the resonator pipe. This is the single most time-consuming step in the whole project. I recommend having a helper do this while you do the fun stuff.

If you don't have the recip saw, pay a shop. Midas charged one owner $20 to remove the leftover chunk of metal and install the new resonator.

Make sure you get a new gasket (donut) between the Y-pipe and resonator. This is a very common failure item ]

Figure 3 M 7210 SHO IS 7210 SHO 1989 91 TAURUS SHO ROD SHIFT KIT PAGE 5 OF 12 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1/15/92

STEP 8: Locate the (2) shift cables (See Figure 4) and remove them at the transmission end. Remove the Cable¬ to transmission bracketry, but reinstall the attaching fasteners to the transmission. Save the clevis bolt (See Figure 5) for reuse.

[One of the "attaching fasteners" is a long bolt that goes through to a nut on the other side. There is also a small square plate around the head of this bolt. Just pry it out with a screwdriver. and The whole large bracket needs to come off which is attached by two large 15mm bolts into the trans. The lower bolt needs to be reinstalled after the bracket is off and the large bolt on the new shifter threads into the upper bolt hole so leave that open until step 27].

Figure 4

Figure 5

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STEP 9: Remove the jack stands and lower the car to the ground.

STEP 10: To remove the console, remove the two plug buttons located on the base of the console, near the front, to expose two retaining screws. Remove screws. See Figure 6.

STEP 11: Remove the gear shift knob. Remove gearshift opening panel (snaps out) and the console to floor bracket retaining screw.

STEP 12: Remove gear access panel (snaps out) and three console to floor bracket retaining screws.

STEP 13: Move the floor mounted shift lever to rearward most position and slide console rearward and up.

STEP 14: Disconnect all necessary electrical connectors and remove console.

STEP 15: Remove the center console supporting bracket by removing two screws.

STEP 16: Remove the shifter assembly by removing the two front screws. Disconnect the cables from shifter assembly and pull them through the floor pan and firewall. It may be easier to cut the shift cable that goes through the firewall and remove it in two (2) pieces. [Save yourself some grief and cut the cables underneath the car before lowering it. You will never get them "through the firewall" in one piece. Use the recip saw, boltcutters, or make sure your hacksaw is sharp! ]

STEP 17: The carpeting covers the tunnel and is cut down the middle of the tunnel. Cut the driver's side of the carpeting back about 2 inches. See Figure 7. Fold the carpeting back and trim the insulation covering the tunnel, as marked in Figure 8.

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R.

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STEP 18: Scrape the mastic off the exposed tunnel, revealing four dimples in the floor pan. These dimples will line up with the studs in the Bracket Assembly (Item 1).

STEP 19: Drill two (2), 1/2" holes through the forward dimples in the floor pan.

STEP 20: Drill two (2), 7/16" holes through the rear dimples in the floor pan.

(NOTE: The completed holes are shown in Figure 9.'Ibe Bracket Assembly (Item 1) studs fit through the holes that have just been drilled.)

STEP 21: Using the Bracket Assembly (Item 1) as a template mark the large center hole on the tunnel.

STEP 22: Cut through the floor pan following the outlines of the large hole with a reciprocating saw. See Figure 10.

[Drill a starter hole and then use the sheet metal shears or a saber saw with metal-cutting blade. There's not that much room to play with the recip between the seats.]

STEP 23: Place the Bracket Assembly (Item 1) through the holes just cut in the floor pan, with the studs facing down.

STEP 24: Raise the vehicle off the ground and support it with jack stands.

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Figure 10

STEP 25: From underneath the vehicle, place the Lower Mounting Bracket (Item 3) over the studs on the Bracket Assembly (Item 1). Install four (4) Nut & Washer Assemblies (Item 5) and torque to 10 12 ft. lbs. See Figure 11.

STEP 26: Install two (2) Body Plugs (Item 2) through the cable holes in the floor pan and the fire wall.

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         INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS	      	1/15/92

STEP 27. Install the two (2) rods of the Transmission Gear Shift Control Assembly (Item 4) to the transmission. See Figure 12. Tighten the bolt to 35 45 ft. lbs. Do not tighten the clevis bolt removed in Step 8.

(NOTE: During the above step, let the Transmission Gear Shift Control Assembly hang while attaching the bolt.)

STEP 28: Swing the rear part of the Transmission Gear Shift Control Assembly to floor pan of the vehicle and tighten two (2) Nut & Washer Assemblies (Item 5) to 10 12 ft. lbs and secure it to the Lower Mounting Bracket.

Figure 12

STEP 29: Tighten the clevis bolt removed in Step 8 to 7 9 ft. lbs. See Figure 12 and Figure 13.

STEP 30: Install the new Resonator Assembly (Item 6) with the fasteners removed in Step 3 and Step 6. Tighten the front bolts to 20 29 ft. lbs. Remember to install the spring removed with each bolt in Step 3. Tighten the rear u bolt to 28 34 ft. lbs. See Figure 14.

STEP 31: Remove jack stands and lower vehicle.

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Figure 14

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STEP 32: Connect the Transmission Gear Shift Lever Boot Assembly (Item 7)to the Console Panel (Item 8) with the four (4) Spring Nuts (Item 9). See Figure 15. n

STEP 33: Reinstall the center console in reverse order, from Step 15 to Step 10.

STEP 34: Reinstall the shifter knob: turn knob until snug and then turn one additional time. The shifter lever will cut new threads in the knob. The knob can be removed and reinstalled four or five times.

STEP 35: Reconnect Battery.

(NOTE: Installation is now complete. Check operation of Transmission Shift Controls before starting engine.)