Resetting the gap on the A/C clutch.

Thanks to Dana Ferrer for this procedure :

First make sure that changing the air gap (set by shims, 1/2 like washers with different thickness') between the clutch and the pulley is the problem.

Make sure it's the clutch that is not turning on (engaging). Watch the A/C compressor (have the AWA turn the A/C Max on and off to see the clutch in action). With mine, the A/C quits after 15 minutes and the clutch disengages and does not re-engage. If you tap (I used a broom handle) it and it re-engages, then the air gap needs adjustment.

You can also check the clutch gap (relatively easy, at most, only need to remove the battery to get to it). If the gap is too large, take out a shim (if you have a caliper, measure the shims and figure out what one to take out to put you in print). Check the gap (do NOT be outside .021 - .036) after re-assembling the hub. If you cannot remove enough shims to get the proper gap, you can buy just the hub (which I believe comes with more shims) as long as your coil is not toasted. The local Ford dealer quoted me about $45, but I didn't need it (yet).

Everyone tells me that this may not last and that the clutch is probably bad, but at least one SHO owner said his lasted 4 years after the reshimming.

Steps:

1 - Remove the battery

2 - Remove the battery tray

3 - Remove the 12mm bolt holding the A/C clutch on. This is a little tricky because you need to keep the clutch from turning to loosen the nut. I used an angle screwdriver wedged against the fender body.

4 - Don't lose the lock washer.

5 - Remove the clutch. Use two big screwdrivers, and wedge it out. Don't bend the clutch. I used a wonder bar (worked very well).

6 - The shims are right in the center. They will fall out. They are 1/2 washers. I had two, one smaller, one larger in thickness.

7 - I removed the smaller shim.

8 - Re-assemble and watch to see if the clutch stays engaged.

9 - Suck in the cool air.

I could do this in 1/2 hour now. First time, 1 hour.