Clutch R&R Procedure

Transmission Removal Procedure

Nick Chrimes BaySHO Performance, based on procedure by Josh Teixeira, SHO Nut Performance

1. Battery cable. Use 1/2" for Gen I, or 8 mm for Gen II.
2. Intake end tank, passenger side (the DIS can get real close to the engine damper bracket)
3. Breaker bar / 19mm socket on the crankshaft pulley. Stops the engine turning when removing the clutch and flywheel.
4. 7" block of wood under clutch pedal to hold it up, releasing the adjuster quadrant.
5. Gear Knob (if Rod Shifter).
6. Air box lid and hose.
7. Throttle cable bracket. 10 mm for Gen I, 13 mm for Gen II.
8. Clutch cable at Tranny. Use long nosed vice grips.
9. Backup lamp switch on top of the Tranny. 22mm.
10. Raise the front of the car at least 20” off the ground to give enough clearance to remove the tranny from underneath. Support the car on jack stands placed under the A Pillars where the front fenders get bolted to the side rails. Remove front wheels.
11. Front O2 sensor. 22mm
12. Catalytic converter. 8, 15, 18mm
13. Shifter, 8 (Cable), 10, 13D, 19mm (Rod).
14. VSS 22mm.
15. Support Beam. Buy one or make one: Engine Support Beam
16. Lower knuckle pinch bolts, upper sway bar end link nut, outer tie-rod end (all 18mm, + 8mm end links). To separate the outer tie rod end from the knuckle, reinstall the castle nut reversed so that it’s flush with the bottom of the stud, whack on the knuckle a few times, tap (don’t whack) on the castle nut.
17. Power steering cooler 8mm
18. Steering rack nuts 24mm
19. Engine mount nuts 21 mm
20. Tranny Mount 15mm
21. Subframe 18mm. Before you remove it, mark round the subframe bushings with a white paint pen to ensure it gets reinstalled in exactly the same place. The alignment will be thrown off if not.
22. Starter. 3/8, 8, 10, 13, 15 depending on year.
23. Drain tranny via a pre-installed tranny drain plug (all 3 quarts) or 13 mm shifter interlock bolt (leaves a lot of fluid in the tranny, maybe a quart). If you plan on installing a drain plug, might as well remove all 3 quarts by drilling the pilot hole. Instructions at: SHO Transaxle Drain Plug Installation
24. Axles, 10mm for axle hanger, passenger side. Plastic caps from spray cans in axle holes.
25. Engine damper bracket (driver’s side lower nuts) 15 mm
26. Wiring protector bracket on top of Tranny, 13 mm bolts, 13 mm nut. This may be missing.
27. Tranny mount. 15 mm. This step is optional.
28. Support tranny, and remove: 13mm nuts, 13, 15mm bolts

Clutch Removal Procedure

1. Pressure plate 10 mm loosen evenly.
2. Flywheel 17 mm
3. Rear main seal
4. Throwout bearing
5. Fork Bolt 14mm (optional)

Clutch Installation Procedure

Before you reinstall the flywheel, take it to a transmission shop and have it resurfaced on a Blanchard machine. The new clutch will judder otherwise. A new stock flywheel is 1.186” thick. Each resurfacing takes about 12 thou off. Can be resurfaced around 3-4 times before it reaches the minimum thickness of 1.141”. After that, the Throw Out Bearing starts to bind on the quill tube.

1. Quill tube: clean with steel wool / brake cleaner, install steel sleeve if not present.
2. Rear main seal.
3. Flywheel, one bolt hole offset, Loctite Blue, 17 mm 39 ft.lb then 58 ft.lb.
4. Pressure plate: clean with lacquer thinner (or brake cleaner), make sure friction disc is centered, Loctite Blue, 10mm 20 ft.lb. then 24 ft.lb.

Tranny Installation Procedure

1. Raise the transmission on a jack. If you have a transmission jack adapter use that. I use a wood splitting wedge under the driver’s end of the transmission to get it more or less at the right angle. Once in position, use a couple of subframe bolts that have the same diameter and pitch to guide it on. Don’t put them in so far that the input shaft jams against the clutch fingers. Rotate the engine round a tad with the breaker bar to get the splines on the input shaft and friction disk to line up. 15mm, 46 ft.lb. Oil pan to tranny bolts, 13 mm. Spec 30 ft.lb. too much, tighten by hand.
2. Wiring protector bracket 13 mm bolts 37 ft.lb. 13mm nut.
3. Starter. 13 mm 40 ft.lb 15 mm for nut. Cables: 14 mm Gen II, 8 mm or 3/8" Gen I.
4. Tranny mount 15 mm 90 ft.lb. If removed.
5. Engine damper bracket 15 mm 40 ft.lb.
6. Axles, 10 mm , tight.
7. Subframe, 18 mm 85 ft.lb.
8. Tranny mount 15 mm 80 ft.lb.
9. Engine mount nuts 21 mm 62 ft.lb.
10. Heat shield, Steering rack nuts 24mm 100 ft.lb.
11. Power steering cooler 8 mm
12. Remove support beam
13. Ball joints 18 mm 44 ft.lb.
14. Tie-rod ends 18mm 34 ft.lb. 1/8” x 1” Cotter pins.
15. End links 18 mm 70 ft. lb.
16. VSS 22mm
17. Tranny fluid. 1/2" to 3/8" adapter on a 1/2" ratchet
18. Shifter 19 mm 46 ft.lb. 13 mm hand tight. Clevis nut 10 mm hand tight. 8mm for cable.
19. Catalytic converter, 8 mm, 15 mm tight (spec 30 ft.lb. will bend the studs), 18 mm.
20. O2 sensor 22mm, dab of anti-seize.
21. Wheels 19 mm 95 ft.lb.
22. Clutch cable
23. Backup lamp switch 22mm and connector.
24. Air box lid 8 mm at throttle body
25. Wood block, adjust clutch cable if necessary via clutch quadrant on the pedal: Adjusting the clutch cable
26. Gear Knob.
27. Battery cable. 1/2" or 8 mm
28. Check for leaks.