Replacing motor mounts
Thanks to Lee Yee.
Well, I finally changed the front engine mount. This ranks up there with installing the rod shifter kit as far as level of difficulty is concerned. Total time was approximately 3.5 hours.
Some afterthoughts about the procedure include:
good time to change lower radiator hose since it needs to be moved out of the way.
good time to change thermostat since you'll be draining out some coolant due to the above.
good time to check antenna cable for corrosion.
Shiny spot on right front of engine due to rubbing with SHO hood pad. Rough launches from a stop or during an upshift. Some loss of traction, strange noises from engine bay.
10mm, 13mm, 15mm standard sockets
13/16in deep well socket
12 or longer extensions
1/2 rachet highly recommended to get proper leverage
plumbing (Channel lock) pliers or equivalent to remove hose clamp
- 2 philips head screwdriver
scrap piece of plywood to support oil pan
This is a very dirty and time involved job. Eat, go to the bathroom, etc. and gather all your tools.
The Helm manual states to lower the subframe when doing this but luckily, you don't have to if the engine is supported properly.
Remove right front wheel and place car on jack stand
Support oil pan using floor jack and plywood to distribute weight over a wider area.
Remove inner fender well cover philips head screws, 7mm bolt, and plastic fasteners.
Spray all the bolts that you'll be removing with penetrating oil.
Remove lower radiator hose from water pump and drain coolant. The front engine mount is right behind it.
Remove 13/16 nut holding engine mount to lower subframe.
Remove two 15mm nuts and two 13mm bolts from engine mount.
Remove 10mm nut and harness bracket from front of engine mount.
Remove additional 10mm nut from front of engine mount.
Remove dampener assembly from engine mount.
Remove engine mount through front of subframe. You may need to jack up the engine a little more to get enough clearance to get the lower bolt out of the subframe.
Install the new engine mount but do not put on any fasteners yet.
Install dampener assembly at the front of the mount. It is much easier to align it now before the other end gets bolted down.
Reinstall remaining bolts and nuts to engine mount.
Reattach radiator hose, fender well cover and wheel.
Refill with coolant (about 1 gallon).
Although the old engine mount didn't look broken, the car is much smoother during takeoff and shifting. I thought the bolt on the engine mount would be completely broken off but maybe there was enough play due to worn rubber isolator? The reinforced engine mount I bought does have a beefier bolt going through it.
I was seriously thinking of changing the rear engine mount while I was at it but I didn't see any clearance for it to come out of the subframe. The Helms manual says to drop the subframe when replacing the engine mounts. Anyone know if this can be changed without resorting to this?
There are only a few sources for the SHO engine mounts that I know of:
SHO Shop, Scott Performance (reinforced engine mounts) Ford dealer (OEM engine mounts)
cant find that engine/tras mount
I have a 1995 SHO3.0 5 speed and was unable to find the motor/tras mount located behinde driver side frount wheel to fix this I removed the mount and drilled two holes placing bolts with fiber locking nuts in the holes to hold together making the mount one piece again (have put on a few hundred miles since repair with no problems) good luck