Fuel Pump R&R

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When it comes time for fuel pump replacement, consider putting in an aftermarket higher capacity pump. It'll cost less than Ford's pump, have to work less (since it's rated higher), and provide more possibilities for future modifications. Here is a link to a good page about Walbro fuel pumps (both information and ordering) - several SHOtimers have ordered fuel pumps from this source without problems. As noted in the footnotes, the Gen1 and Gen2 SHOs can use the pump listed for the '85-'97 Mustang.


Thanks to John Gentry for this procedure :

As most of you know the stock fuel pumps that Ford put in the early Taurus line are rather weak and prone to failure. When I replaced mine at 75,000 miles I could tell a difference after I added the 155 lph (liter per hour) pump. That is only because my old pump was about to go out. Don't expect a new pump to add rocket thrust to your stock SHO. However, the higher volume pumps do become a factor as you modify your SHO such as by adding cams or a supercharger.

You will notice that I didn't take photos of every step in the procedure. That is because when I took the pictures a year ago I did not have any intention of writing up a fuel pump replacement procedure. Only use this procedure as a supplement to a shop manual such as a Helm or Chilton's.

What Pump to Get

I ordered my fuel pump kit from Doug Lewis of F.P.S. It came with a new 155 lph pump, fuel pump mounting gasket, clamps, hose, mesh sock and instructions. The day I did the procedure it was a windy day and I lost my instructions after I removed the first three bolts at the filler neck. So if you order the pump from F.P.S. put your instructions in a secure place and use your shop manual along with this procedure.

I dropped the tank and changed the pump by myself without any help. I strongly suggest that you get a friend to help you especially if you need to drop the tank like I did. It took me about 3.5 to 4 hours to change out the pump and reinstall the tank. It would have gone a lot faster (about 2 hours) if I didn't have to drop the tank and had help. Have fun!

Tools Needed

10 MM 3/8" socket 13 MM 1/2" socket for tank strap bolts 5/16" 3/8" socket for fill hose connections (if you need to drop the tank) 2 1/2 foot hollow metal pipe to fit over ratchet handle to use as a cheater bar. (The handle from a large floor jack will work) Long flat head screwdriver Masking tape to mark fuel lines Large floor jack Wheel chocks for front tires Heavy duty jack stands Fuel pressure gauge with relief valve Gasoline siphon with 5 gallon fuel can (only if you have too much gas in the tank) Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel

Parts Needed

155 lph fuel pump kit with new gasket, sock, hose and fittings. Plastic hairpin clips (x2) for the fuel line couplings. This is a backup if you break them during removal.



  1. Disconnect the battery's negative terminal and make sure your gas tank is below 1/8th of a tank.
  2. Relieve the fuel pressure from the system at the fuel rail by attaching the gauge at the Shrader valve. (This will have a plastic cap on it and look similar to a valve stem cap on a tire).
  3. Place the rear of the vehicle up on jack stands as high as you can safely lift it.
  4. Remove the gas cap.
  5. Remove the three 10 MM bolts from the fuel filler neck.


  6. Remove the 10 MM bolt that holds the metal filler line to the frame.
  7. Remove the 13 MM bolt that holds the tank strap on the passengers side. (Mine was so rusty that I had to use a cheater bar and a lot of Liquid Wrench).


  8. Support the gas tank with a large floor jack. Then drop it down 6' to 8" to gain access to the fuel pump assembly, electrical connection, and fuel lines.


  9. Remove the plastic hairpin retaining clips from the fuel lines with a flat bladed screwdriver and then disconnect the lines from the pump assembly. (You can use the plastic clips during reassembly if they don't break) Mark the different fuel lines with masking tape and a pen to aid during reassembly.
  10. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel pump.
  11. With a screwdriver tap on the retainer ring tabs using a hammer until the ring breaks free of the mounting surface. If it won't budge you will have to drop the entire tank like I did.
  12. Remove the retainer ring.
  13. Gently remove the fuel pump assembly out of the tank. Be careful and do not force anything. If you bend the sender arm your gas gauge will not ever read correctly. Carefully lift the assembly from the tank when you find the right angle so it is not in a bind as you remove it.


  14. Now that the fuel pump assembly has been removed lay it down on some shop towels and note the orientation of the parts. Remove the two wires on the pump and remember where they go for the new pump.
  15. Grab the metal ring support at the bottom of the assembly and gently bend it down as you attempt to free the pump. Once the bottom of the pump is free pull down to remove it from the upper tubing. You will remove and reuse the rubber bushing at the bottom of the old pump.
  16. The new pump is slightly longer than the old pump. You will need to trim about 1/2" off of the metal tube that attaches the new section of black tubing to the new fuel pump. (This is the metal tube in the center of the fuel pump assembly plate). Use a small cutoff wheel or hacksaw to do this. You don't have much room to make the cut so be careful not to cut anything else!


  17. Use the supplied new section of tubing to attach the new fuel hose to the pump. Use the new clamps and crank them down tight. Put the old rubber bushing on the bottom of the new pump. Push the pump back into its bracket.
  18. Reconnect the electrical connections on the new pump and make sure they are secure. You wouldn't want to have to take it all apart again due to a loose connection!
  19. Install the new plastic mesh sock at the bottom of the assembly in the same orientation as the old sock.
  20. Reinstall the fuel pump housing into the gas tank using a new retainer ring gasket.
  21. Reinstall the fuel lines, electrical connection, and gas tank.
  22. Reconnect the battery.
  23. Cycle the ignition on and off about six times without starting the engine. (You only want to hear the fuel pump spool up) This will pump fresh gas back into the fuel lines and to the engine.
  24. Start the engine and check for leaks.


This is what you will get into if you have to drop the tank. Ah what fun!
If you have any questions about this procedure E-mail me at ATXSHO93 (at) aol.com.